Hotel Seven was right in the heart of Tirana. Just a hop-skip-jump from Skanderbeg Square named after Albania's National Hero. On one corner is the National Historic Museum.On another, the Tirana Clock Tower closed on Saturday. (There are supposed to be great views from the top when the Clock Tower is open.)

Next to the Tirana Clock Tower is the small but exquisite Mosque of Et'hem Bey dating from the 18th century. I wasn't properly dressed and couldn't enter. No worries. There were gorgeous, painted carvings outside the perimeter of the mosque. Quite beautiful.

On a pilgrimage for liter bottles of water, the nicest Albanians in the entire world directed us (using gestures since very few spoke English) to a small eatery where the owners insisted on selling us six large rounds of bread for $.60 U.S. besides the water. What great people!